Sailing between continents: First day in Istanbul, part two of four

ISTANBUL, April 9, 2025 – “A Bosphorus cruise is a must,” Mom declared excitedly as we exited Dolmabahçe Palace. My jet lagged body was voting for a nap instead, and I was growing noticeably irritable. Nat gave me a sympathetic smile as I dragged my feet toward Eminönü pier, mentally tallying how many hours I’d been awake.

Mom immediately claimed a strategic spot in the cabin, protected from the elements but with a perfect view through large windows. The initial excitement quickly gave way to drowsiness as the gentle rocking of the boat had me fighting to keep my eyes open. I needed relief from something other than yet another Turkish coffee.

“The cold air might help,” I said, heading toward the deck. Nat followed supportively, a meaningful gesture from a Midwesterner who notoriously despises the cold. The brisk wind temporarily shocked my system awake, but my ears felt icy almost immediately, sending us retreating to Mom’s sheltered position within minutes.

As we sailed north, the city’s skyline transformed. The minarets and domes gradually gave way to waterfront mansions known as yalıs, Ottoman era wooden houses built right at the water’s edge.

We passed under the Bosphorus Bridge, an impressive suspension structure connecting Europe and Asia. “It reminds me a bit of sailing under the Golden Gate,” I told Mom as we gazed upward. Having sailed San Francisco Bay many times, I couldn’t help but compare. While the Golden Gate’s distinctive orange red color and Art Deco styling make it instantly recognizable, there’s something uniquely powerful about the Bosphorus Bridge, connecting two continents.

I noticed a medieval looking fortress on the European shore and, consulting the map on my phone, identified it as Rumeli Hisarı. This formidable structure was built by Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II in just four months during 1452, in preparation for his conquest of Constantinople. Its strategic position at the narrowest point of the Bosphorus allowed the Ottomans to control sea traffic, a critical advantage in the eventual fall of the Byzantine capital.

“Four months? To build that entire fortress?” I called to Nat, who raised an eyebrow at my sudden burst of historical enthusiasm. Even through my jet lag, I couldn’t help but be fascinated by these glimpses into Istanbul’s strategic past.

I gave in to fatigue and slouched in my chair, allowing my eyes to close momentarily.

Before disembarking, I took a final moment to absorb what made this waterway so special. The Bosphorus isn’t just a geographical feature; it’s perhaps the world’s most significant natural dividing line, serving simultaneously as bridge and boundary between continents.

Stay tuned for part three of our first day in Istanbul, where we’ll climb the historic Galata Tower and I’ll reconnect with childhood memories through an unexpected source, roasted chestnuts from a street vendor.